| You need to consider three elements
in order to protect your roses. First,
you need to retain the moisture; second,
preserve a suitable temperature in the
soil; third, stop weed-growth. What is
called a "dust-mulch,"
maintained by frequent hoeing, is,
perhaps, the best method, although, where
the summers are warm, a covering in early
July of long, "strawy," cow-,
pig-, or horse-stable manure that will
not heat, will also do the trick. The lighter and
more chaff-like portion should be removed
in the spring and the richer part dug in.
Peat-moss is even better than a
manure-mulch, because the latter may
encourage root-growth nearer the surface
than is desirable. You can also trying
using sawdust to cover the beds in
summer. It certainly prevents the need
for weeding and otherwise seemed
beneficial. Another plan is to plant some
low-growing and shallow-rooting
ground-cover plant, like violas (pansies)
or portulacas. These grow quickly from
seed and should be established by
mid-July.
PROTECTING FROM FROST. Where the
temperature falls below freezing, the
less hardy rose varieties should be
partly covered, and all roses will be the
better for some protection, at least
about the roots. If you are visited with
zero weather, let
"preparedness" be your rule. To
begin with, bank up the soil cone-shaped,
with the apex 6 to 10 inches high around
the stem of each bush. Ashes are
sometimes used, but we know of nothing
that is better than soil.
In very cold countries, the roses may
be lifted entirely and buried in trenches
for the winter, and they will come out in
fine shape for replanting in spring.
After you have drawn the soil nicely
around them, leave them alone till the
ground is frozen with a crust hard enough
to bear the weight of a stone-laden
wheelbarrow. By this time the moles and
mice, or other creatures, will have
secured their winter abodes elsewhere,
and not be tempted to make nests in the
protecting material you will next apply.
Now do not smother your roses, or they
may die. Cover them thoroughly, as high
up as you attempt to protect them, but
always allow for the circulation of air.
A 3- or 4-inch blanket of good, heavy
stable-manure will keep out much cold.
Protecting tree roses is very
important. Pampas grass or eulalia or rye
straw may be tied round the stems an inch
thick, but the top and union of stem and
top are the critical points. The
branches, if pruned back a bit and tied
up, leave a convenient shape to encase in
material that will turn sun, wind, rain,
snow, and ice. Try patent waterproof
wrapping- paper for this. In severe
climates roses are sometimes taken up and
buried bodily in a trench in the
vegetable-garden and then replaced in the
spring.
FIGHTING INSECT ENEMIES. Eternal
vigilance is the price of perfect
flowers, because "prevention is
better than cure." Vigorous, healthy
plants are seldom troubled much. The two
golden rules to remember are these: Keep
sharp watch out for the first appearance
of insect or fungous pests and adopt
measures for destruction at once. Then
persevere with the remedy adopted until a
cure has been effected.
Cleanliness is very important. Keep
your roses clean and healthy and that
will go a long way toward making them
vigorous and happy. The beginners need
not be dismayed at the array of troubles
that may happen; if they do, these hints
are offered as a "first aid."
As a matter of fact, not all the pests
are likely to appear in the same garden.
Rose-growing is not so complicated or
difficult as might appear.
Among the insect enemies to the rose,
about the earliest to appear is the rose
aphis, which can easily be controlled by
an application of "Black-Leaf
40" or whale-oil soap in solution,
applied with a sprayer, and the sooner
the better.
There follow the rose slugs, including
the American rose slugs, bristly slug,
and the coiled slug, so called, all of
which can be overcome by the use of a
solution of 1 ounce of arsenate of lead
in 11/2 gallons of water. The rose-leaf
roller may also be treated with the same
spray and by hand-picking. The rose-leaf
hopper may be controlled with the same
treatment as the rose aphis.
Perhaps the worst enemy to roses is
the rose chafer (or rose beetle or rose
bug). The little chap avoids poisons. You
may ensnare him by adding some glucose or
molasses to arsenate of lead, to make it
stick to the foliage and to make it more
tempting to him. There are commercial
preparations In the market that are
effective. It is even worth while
covering very valuable plants while
blooming with mosquito netting.
For more tips and guides on growing
roses, head to http://HowToGrowRoses.FunHowToBooks.com
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